| Mtg. No. |
Topics |
Chpt. |
Pages |
| [1] |
Organization, introduction, review linear wave theory
|
1 |
ALL |
| [2] |
Review water wave mechanics, wave transformations
|
5 |
137-207 |
| [3] |
Intro. To radiation stress theory (handout)
|
5 |
168 |
| [4] |
Mohr's circle, radiation stress theory applications(handout)
|
handout |
|
| [5] |
Wave breaking nearshore, wave energy flux gradient
|
6 |
208-217 |
| [6] |
Surf zone energy dissipation models
|
6 |
217-232 |
| [7] |
Wave set down and set up
|
6 |
232-238 |
| [8] |
Undertow, wave runup edge waves
|
6 |
231-264 |
| [9] |
Beach profiles, morphdogy
|
7 |
270-302 |
| [10] |
Profile change due to storm
|
7 |
302-314 |
| [11] |
Cross-shore sediment transport models
|
7 |
315-326 |
| [12] |
Summary-Cross-shore hydrodynamics &. processes
|
|
|
| [13] |
EXAMINATION NO.1 CROSS SHORE
|
|
|
| [14] |
Longshore currents, rips, nearshore circulation
|
8 |
336-350 |
| [15] |
Longshore currents due to obliquely breaking waves
|
8 |
350-366 |
| [16] |
Longshore sediment transport structures
|
9 |
377-390 |
| [17] |
Wave power and sediment transport rates
|
9 |
390-400 |
| [18] |
Cross-shore distribution of longshore transport
|
9 |
401-417 |
| [19] |
Planform models of shoreline shape
|
10 |
424-430 |
| [20] |
Analytical and numerical, one-line models
|
10 |
430-453 |
| [21] |
Geomorphology of eroding coasts
|
2 |
16-30 |
| [22] |
Geomorphology of accreting coasts
|
2 |
37-44 |
| [23] |
Beach morphology and sediment
|
3 |
45-60 |
| [24] |
Beach morphology and sediment budgets
|
3 |
61-75 |
| [25] |
EXAMINATION NO.2 LONGSHORE
|
|
|
| [26] |
Thanksgiving Holiday - No class
|
|
|
| [27] |
Nearshore morphodynamics
|
11 |
All |
| [28] |
Water levels, tides, storm surge
|
4 |
76-100 |
| [29] |
Sea level rise literature, greenhouse effects
|
4 |
101-136 |
| [30] |
Protection of our coasts - critique
|
12 |
All |
| [31] |
FINAL EXAM 3:45 - 6:45 pm
|
|
|
